4th & 5th Jan
4th Jan
So today we had an early start [the norm as it happens], having breakfast at 6 a.m. We drove for about an hour and eventually arrived at what was a large lotus swamp. We almost immediately had flight views of a large flock of Lesser Whistling Ducks as they flew around in loops looking for somewhere to land. Water birds of course were very much in evidence given the habitat, the largest of which were the very common Asian Openbills. These large greyish storks have a huge bill which has a gap between the cutting edges when closed, and here their favourite food comes in the form of tennis ball-sized apple snails. Close relatives also in good supply here were Grey Heron, Great White Egrets and a few Yellow Bitterns and Purple Herons. We also had Eastern Cattle Egret, and the ubiquitous Chinese Pond Heron. At the lower end of the size scale were plenty of Grey-headed Swamphens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, plus familiar Common Moorhens and Coots, Black-winged Stilt, Common Snipe, Red-wattled Lapwing and Little Grebe.
Non-water birds were also present in good numbers, the highlights being Green Bee-eater, Coppersmith Barbet, Greater Coucal, Streak-eared and Red-whiskered Bulbuls, Black-collared Starlings, Plain- and Yellow-bellied Prinias, Asian Koel, and Chestnut-tailed Starlings to mention a few. We also did pretty well for warblers, with Dusky Warblers being numerous, plus brief views of Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler. Also Oriental Reed Warbler, Black-browed Reed Warbler, and Thick-billed Warbler, plus numerous Yellow-browed Warblers. Overhead we saw plenty of Barn Swallows but careful scrutiny of them as they flew around, revealed several Wire-tailed Swallows too. As we wandered around on the banks by the pools we were treated to an exhibition of hand propulsion by a local fisherman in his small boat.
Non-water birds were also present in good numbers, the highlights being Green Bee-eater, Coppersmith Barbet, Greater Coucal, Streak-eared and Red-whiskered Bulbuls, Black-collared Starlings, Plain- and Yellow-bellied Prinias, Asian Koel, and Chestnut-tailed Starlings to mention a few. We also did pretty well for warblers, with Dusky Warblers being numerous, plus brief views of Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler. Also Oriental Reed Warbler, Black-browed Reed Warbler, and Thick-billed Warbler, plus numerous Yellow-browed Warblers. Overhead we saw plenty of Barn Swallows but careful scrutiny of them as they flew around, revealed several Wire-tailed Swallows too. As we wandered around on the banks by the pools we were treated to an exhibition of hand propulsion by a local fisherman in his small boat.
Once we had 'birded out' this area we then had a 3 hour drive north and eventually reached the town of Fang, where we had lunch. We then headed into the forested mountains which form the Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park which is a huge area - the part we would be exploring is known as Doi Lang West, which is accessible by a long climbing mountain road/track. This eventually led into pine forest and whilst slowly driving this stretch we saw a couple Oriental Turtle Doves in the middle of the track. We stopped and walked for a while too, and found plenty of Hume's Warblers in the trackside trees and also Yellow-browed Warblers. The pines eventually gave way to a stretch of evergreen forest and along this stretch of the road there are assorted photography stake-outs where small areas of vegetation have been cleared, and suitable perching logs and branches are set out at the far end. These are baited with meal worms. It seems that most Thai folk with an interest in birds are not really birdwatchers as we know them, but photographers, invariably armed with pro Canon equipment including the massive fast 600mm lenses and more often than not, pop-up hides - none of the locals we saw, seemed to have binoculars or 'scopes. The stake-outs here gave us some really good views of cracking birds. Black-backed Sibias were particularly showy, along with such delights as Mrs. Gould's Sunbird, Sapphire Flycatcher, Grey Bushchat, Yunnan Fulvetta, and Flavescent Bulbul. The stars of the show however were firstly a stunning male Siberian Rubythroat, and secondly a Slaty-blue Flycatcher.
We made our way a little farther along the track and then got out to walk a section again. Once of the first birds we saw, and heard, was a striking Spot-breasted Parrotbill, looking a little like a Bearded Tit on steroids! It posed very well for photos. Also nearby but nowhere near as obliging was a flighty flock of Grey-headed Parrotbills.
Moving farther along we soon caught up with some woodpeckers in the form of Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker and the impressive Lesser Yellownape. Other new birds in this area were Large Cuckooshrike, Pallas's Warbler, Rufescent Prinia, and Flavescent Bulbul. The most impressive of the 'small' birds however, was the Giant Nuthatch of which we saw three individuals. Of further interest was a Eurasian Jay, which in this part of the world is the leucotis subspecies which has a distinctive white face and we also had brief views of a Chestnut Bunting. Time was marching on so it was time to make our way back down the mountain. As we walked back to the vehicle there were good numbers of Cook's Swift flying overhead. We were pretty tired by the time we reached our accommodation, which was the delightful Thatorn Garden Home lodge, where we would be staying for three nights.
We made our way a little farther along the track and then got out to walk a section again. Once of the first birds we saw, and heard, was a striking Spot-breasted Parrotbill, looking a little like a Bearded Tit on steroids! It posed very well for photos. Also nearby but nowhere near as obliging was a flighty flock of Grey-headed Parrotbills.
Moving farther along we soon caught up with some woodpeckers in the form of Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker and the impressive Lesser Yellownape. Other new birds in this area were Large Cuckooshrike, Pallas's Warbler, Rufescent Prinia, and Flavescent Bulbul. The most impressive of the 'small' birds however, was the Giant Nuthatch of which we saw three individuals. Of further interest was a Eurasian Jay, which in this part of the world is the leucotis subspecies which has a distinctive white face and we also had brief views of a Chestnut Bunting. Time was marching on so it was time to make our way back down the mountain. As we walked back to the vehicle there were good numbers of Cook's Swift flying overhead. We were pretty tired by the time we reached our accommodation, which was the delightful Thatorn Garden Home lodge, where we would be staying for three nights.
5th Jan
The plan for today was to visit the other mountain ridge, known as Doi Lang East. After the customary early breakfast grabbed from a local store we set off at 6:30 and after half an hour we reached the entrance at 7:00, this particular ridge having a manned entrance 'gate' - which didn't open to vehicles until 8:00. We therefore set off up the dirt road on foot to see what we could find. Long-tailed Minivets were soon found moving through the trees and a good find moving along with them was a tiny White-bellied Erpornis with its small crest. Ashy Drongos, Black Drongos and Hair-crested Drongos were in evidence, plus a selection of Bulbuls of which Sooty-headed, Black-crested, Grey-eyed and Mountain were the pick of the bunch. A Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker was seen again, and Scarlet Minivet was rather more colourful, along with Swinhoe's White-eye, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, a stunning Blue-throated Barbet, a striking Slender-billed Oriole and a rather elusive Silver-eared Mesia {I think i may have overdone the adjectives there!}. After this pretty productive session we headed back downhill to the entrance in order to gain vehicle access so we could go further in.
Sadly we had to abandon our smart Toyota because the track is very rough and deeply rutted, so our transport was a local driver's 'bus' which was basically a long wheelbase pickup with a coach type body and side benches where we all had to cwtch up together [a Welsh term that, for snuggling up tight] and hang on for dear life whilst trying to protect our cameras and optics as we bounced around. The track on this ridge runs along adjacent to the border with Myanmar as is illustrated by occasional signs signifying unexploded mines! The first stop was by a longish concrete bridge over a fairly deep gully, where skyline is more open, thus offering the chance to see activity in the canopy, but unfortunately there was quite a wind funnelling down the ravine so we didn't linger. There were some rice fields farther along the track but these were also pretty quiet although we did see Siberian Stonechat, Chinese Pond Heron, and I had a brief view of a large eagle which I am confident was a Black Eagle, although it didn't go on the official list as no-one else really saw it {we did log one later}. We headed farther along the trail and eventually parked the bus near a border police checkpoint and then birded along the track on foot. The area near the checkpoint was pretty productive with Dark-backed Sibias particularly evident, plus some more exciting stuff such as a delightful Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher, Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Himalayan Bluetail, Whiskered Yuhina, and Orange-bellied Leafbird. Moving along the track species continued to assail the senses, with Yunnan- and Rufous-winged Fulvettas, Large Niltava, Chestnut-crowned- and Davison's Leaf Warblers, and Mrs. Gould's Sunbird. At a different location we found a species that I had noted when looking through the field guide, as one I must see - Scarlet-faced Liocichla, not only for its stunning colour, but also it's unlikely name. Keeping it company was a Silver-eared Laughingthrush, and nearby we found a Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. More strolling around and we found a couple of Yellow-cheeked Tits, and a Buff-barred Warbler (known by some authorities as Orange-Barred Leaf Warbler). We had a packed lunch and then walked a little more and ticked off Golden Babblers, and a delightful Slaty-bellied Tesia, looking like a tiny Pitta, plus Yellow-bellied Fantail, and a few Grey-chinned Minivets.
Sadly we had to abandon our smart Toyota because the track is very rough and deeply rutted, so our transport was a local driver's 'bus' which was basically a long wheelbase pickup with a coach type body and side benches where we all had to cwtch up together [a Welsh term that, for snuggling up tight] and hang on for dear life whilst trying to protect our cameras and optics as we bounced around. The track on this ridge runs along adjacent to the border with Myanmar as is illustrated by occasional signs signifying unexploded mines! The first stop was by a longish concrete bridge over a fairly deep gully, where skyline is more open, thus offering the chance to see activity in the canopy, but unfortunately there was quite a wind funnelling down the ravine so we didn't linger. There were some rice fields farther along the track but these were also pretty quiet although we did see Siberian Stonechat, Chinese Pond Heron, and I had a brief view of a large eagle which I am confident was a Black Eagle, although it didn't go on the official list as no-one else really saw it {we did log one later}. We headed farther along the trail and eventually parked the bus near a border police checkpoint and then birded along the track on foot. The area near the checkpoint was pretty productive with Dark-backed Sibias particularly evident, plus some more exciting stuff such as a delightful Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher, Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Himalayan Bluetail, Whiskered Yuhina, and Orange-bellied Leafbird. Moving along the track species continued to assail the senses, with Yunnan- and Rufous-winged Fulvettas, Large Niltava, Chestnut-crowned- and Davison's Leaf Warblers, and Mrs. Gould's Sunbird. At a different location we found a species that I had noted when looking through the field guide, as one I must see - Scarlet-faced Liocichla, not only for its stunning colour, but also it's unlikely name. Keeping it company was a Silver-eared Laughingthrush, and nearby we found a Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. More strolling around and we found a couple of Yellow-cheeked Tits, and a Buff-barred Warbler (known by some authorities as Orange-Barred Leaf Warbler). We had a packed lunch and then walked a little more and ticked off Golden Babblers, and a delightful Slaty-bellied Tesia, looking like a tiny Pitta, plus Yellow-bellied Fantail, and a few Grey-chinned Minivets.
We then made our way back down the mountain, having regained the comfort of the Toyota, and headed back to Thatorn Garden Home to relax a freshen up after such an early start, and then headed straight back out to visit the Thatorn rice fields which weren't far away. Being a wet area, egrets were much in evidence with the usual Little, Great White , Intermediate and Cattle being present. The best bird to kick off with though, was a smart male Citrine Wagtail, accompanied by White Wagtails of various subspecies of which I only recorded the chinese, leucopsis, version. A Baya Weaver was a nice find, and we soon found Pied Bushchat, Brown Shrike, and Long-tailed Shrike, sitting up on vantage points as they do, and on the ground we had Red-throated and Paddyfield Pipits, plus an Oriental Skylark. On the raptor front, a Common Kestrel was found and on cue at this known site for them, an immature 'ringtail' Pied Harrier hunted back and forth. A Greater Coucal was impressive. Wet areas gave us some familiar waders in the form of Common and Green Sandpipers plus Little Ringed Plover, and the very common White-breasted Waterhen skulked around the wet edges. Things were rounded off with Common Kingfisher, Green Bee-eater, Oriental Magpie-robin and one or two Ashy Woodswallows flew around towards dusk.
There's some shots of the rice fields below, with the gorgeous sunset just as we left.
There's some shots of the rice fields below, with the gorgeous sunset just as we left.