6th & 7th Jan
6th Jan
So today the first location was to be the Mae Fah Luang Arboretum, where there was apparently a feeding station which attracted thrushes and other interesting species. The arboretum was quite some way from where we were staying and was right on the border with Myanmar and not quite at the most northerly point in Thailand. There's a map below showing the location, NE of where we were staying at Thatorn Garden Home. It says temporarily closed on the map as I was building this site during the Covid-19 pandemic! We needed to be at the location early to stand a good chance of seeing the birds come in before the day got too hot, so we set off at 5 a.m. and grabbed breakfast at a 7-Eleven outlet.
We timed it pretty well and arrived at first light, parked up and then walked along a couple of trails through the gardens until we arrived at a small clump of low trees from the shelter of which we looked out onto a large clearing backed by tall trees. There were just a couple of local people there, armed with cameras and massive lenses. There would be quite a few more later! We settled ourselves into suitable positions and waited for the show to begin. First on stage was an Eyebrowed Thrush together with a White-tailed Robin - a real bonus to see the latter normally very elusive species. Black-breasted Thrush then made an appearance, a very smart bird, but then even smarter came a male Dusky Thrush which posed quite nicely, and was a good bird to see, being quite a scarce bird in Thailand. We were then treated to two more thrushes - a Chestnut Thrush which was not quite so obliging as the ones that had already appeared, and a stunning Blue Whistling Thrush. This was the black-billed form which is migratory. Later in the trip we would see quite a number of the resident yellow-billed form. Whilst all this was going on a female Blue-fronted Redstart skulked around in the background. A few other goodies in the surrounding bushes and trees comprised a Hill Blue Flycatcher, White-rumped Shama, and Mrs. Gould's Sunbird. It was now around 8 a.m. and activity had really died down so the good number of locals arriving with their massive lenses had missed the main show and we could be smug about having left at 5 a.m.!
We then slowly walked some of the paths in the fascinating gardens where there was a very colourful array of multicoloured brassicas and other plants. Whilst walking we saw a large number of Yellow-browed Warblers, Swinhoe's White-eyes, a Common Rosefinch, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Fire-breasted Sunbird, and Blue-winged Minla. A handsome Grey-backed Shrike sat in a tree and a Blue-throated Barbet added some colour.
We then slowly walked some of the paths in the fascinating gardens where there was a very colourful array of multicoloured brassicas and other plants. Whilst walking we saw a large number of Yellow-browed Warblers, Swinhoe's White-eyes, a Common Rosefinch, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Fire-breasted Sunbird, and Blue-winged Minla. A handsome Grey-backed Shrike sat in a tree and a Blue-throated Barbet added some colour.
We took some refreshment back at the minibus and then headed up the road to a border checkpoint where we enjoyed a nice panoramic view across the border into Myanmar {see the header}, whilst ticking off a nice view of a Long-tailed Shrike. We then wandered into a coffee plantation which produced a few species, the pick of the bunch being a couple of tiny Speckled Piculets, Hume's Warbler, Chestnut-flanked White-eye, and a flock of Black Bulbuls. On the way back down the mountain we came across a flock of Asian House Martins, and in the bushes a few White-rumped Munias. We had lunch in a local restaurant and then it was siesta time. The rest of the group decided to visit the Thatorn rice fields again to try for Yellow-breasted Buntings, and hopefully male Pied Harrier. Anne & I were pretty knackered so we decided to stay put this time - I wan't too bothered about male Pied Harrier as we had had superb views of one on a trip to Myanmar in 2013.
7th Jan
First destination for today was Fang Hot Springs. We had the usual early breakfast and left the hotel at 6:30 and after a reasonably short drive we arrived at the springs at 7:15. The location is a kind of resort with thermal springs and steam rising from various fissures in the ground, and it is also the headquarters of Doi Pha Hom National Park. The idea here as to wander around the grounds to see what we could find, the prime target being Spot-winged Grosbeak. This is a known spot for these impressive birds, which are normally found at higher elevations than here.
Initially we walked along a path by a wooded area that overlooked a kind of basin where steam was rising from various places. An Asian Barred Owlet sitting in a tree was a nice introduction as was a Shikra which flew in and landed. Whilst on the raptor front, a Crested {Oriental} Honey Buzzard circled around overhead. What were by now familiar Black-crested Bulbuls were pretty common and we had a small group of Long-tailed Minivets to keep them company, then further passerines in the form of Lineated Barbet and Coppersmith Barbet, a leucotis {Eurasian} Jay, Ashy Drongo and a couple of Blue Whistling Thrushes of the resident yellow-billed race. Eventually the path dropped down to the side of the open 'steaming' area and more or less as soon as we got on the level we had a Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon on the ground, plus Olive-backed Pipits and and two Blue Rock Thrushes. To the right of the path there was some activity up in the trees and we were straight on to a flock of the target Spot-winged Grosbeaks, and what impressive birds these were, rather like bright yellow Hawfinches! There was a sizeable flock which gave good flight views as they dropped into the trees. They were pretty confiding, some coming down into lowish bushes behind a couple of buildings allowing for some reasonable photographs. The males were yellow with a black head and the females arguably more impressive with their streaked black-and-yellow plumage. More Olive-backed Pipits were seen plus Grey Wagtail and the alboides subspecies of White Wagtail. A very close Chinese Pond Heron stalked around a wet area. We hung around for a few minutes and whilst waiting for the Geyser, we spotted two Two-barred Warblers, and then finally and witnessed the erupting 'geyser' which although impressive, was entirely staged.
We had a coffee on the terrace of the on-site cafe and added a few more species such as Thick-billed Flowerpecker, Blue-winged Leafbird and Common Tailorbird. Nick heard an unusual call and eventually got some images which revealed a Manchurian Bush Warbler, a rarity for the area. Sadly I didn't get on to it. We also had a second Asian Barred Owlet. Thirst sated, we made our way back to the parking area and were immediately rewarded with a Black Baza overhead, plus a Crested Honey Buzzard of the ruficolis Indomalayan subspecies in a tree, and 3 Crested Serpent Eagles.
Initially we walked along a path by a wooded area that overlooked a kind of basin where steam was rising from various places. An Asian Barred Owlet sitting in a tree was a nice introduction as was a Shikra which flew in and landed. Whilst on the raptor front, a Crested {Oriental} Honey Buzzard circled around overhead. What were by now familiar Black-crested Bulbuls were pretty common and we had a small group of Long-tailed Minivets to keep them company, then further passerines in the form of Lineated Barbet and Coppersmith Barbet, a leucotis {Eurasian} Jay, Ashy Drongo and a couple of Blue Whistling Thrushes of the resident yellow-billed race. Eventually the path dropped down to the side of the open 'steaming' area and more or less as soon as we got on the level we had a Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon on the ground, plus Olive-backed Pipits and and two Blue Rock Thrushes. To the right of the path there was some activity up in the trees and we were straight on to a flock of the target Spot-winged Grosbeaks, and what impressive birds these were, rather like bright yellow Hawfinches! There was a sizeable flock which gave good flight views as they dropped into the trees. They were pretty confiding, some coming down into lowish bushes behind a couple of buildings allowing for some reasonable photographs. The males were yellow with a black head and the females arguably more impressive with their streaked black-and-yellow plumage. More Olive-backed Pipits were seen plus Grey Wagtail and the alboides subspecies of White Wagtail. A very close Chinese Pond Heron stalked around a wet area. We hung around for a few minutes and whilst waiting for the Geyser, we spotted two Two-barred Warblers, and then finally and witnessed the erupting 'geyser' which although impressive, was entirely staged.
We had a coffee on the terrace of the on-site cafe and added a few more species such as Thick-billed Flowerpecker, Blue-winged Leafbird and Common Tailorbird. Nick heard an unusual call and eventually got some images which revealed a Manchurian Bush Warbler, a rarity for the area. Sadly I didn't get on to it. We also had a second Asian Barred Owlet. Thirst sated, we made our way back to the parking area and were immediately rewarded with a Black Baza overhead, plus a Crested Honey Buzzard of the ruficolis Indomalayan subspecies in a tree, and 3 Crested Serpent Eagles.
After lunch we decided to pay another visit to Doi Lang West and spend the rest of the afternoon there. Once we had driven up to the initial ridge of conifers we stopped at the known spot for Ultramarine Flycatcher but after waiting for a fair while it failed to make an appearance. We moved on a bit and were finally rewarded with fairly brief and distant views of this stunning deep blue and white flycatcher. At this point we also picked up Hume's Warbler and a Pallas's Warbler. We moved on in the bus and eventually saw some trackside locals with cameras so we stopped and found ourselves under a large fruiting tree. Looking up and scanning we were soon rewarded with good views of several Himalayan Cutias, another bird I had earmarked in the field guide before the trip as a good'un to get. Result! Other activity in this tree provided us with 2 superb Sapphire Flycatchers, a Vivid Niltava, by now familiar Dark-backed Sibias, Flavescent Bulbul and Golden-throated Barbet. Nearby we had a male Slaty Blue Flycatcher at one of the many photographic stakeouts.
We drove even further along the road and came to an area where the forest was more open and here we had a pretty good long session with a long list of mouthwatering species. First off, a Maroon Oriole, then a shed load of drongos: Black, Ashy, Hair-crested, Bronzed, and Lesser Racket-tailed. A Great Barbet was pretty impressive with its massive bill and rather diminutive in comparison were Marten's Warbler and Chinese Leaf Warbler. Other good birds at this location were two Stripe-breasted Woodpeckers, a Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler, Lesser Coucal, Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, and a delightful White-gorgetted Flycatcher.
Time was marching on so we started to head back down the mountain, and then came across a male Mrs. Hume's Pheasant, which gave brief views from the bus before it disappeared into the undergrowth. Pressing on we finally arrived at our accommodation, the delightfully named Tangerine Ville Hotel in Fang. It looked rather austere and 'eastern bloc' from the outside but inside was very comfortable and convivial.
We drove even further along the road and came to an area where the forest was more open and here we had a pretty good long session with a long list of mouthwatering species. First off, a Maroon Oriole, then a shed load of drongos: Black, Ashy, Hair-crested, Bronzed, and Lesser Racket-tailed. A Great Barbet was pretty impressive with its massive bill and rather diminutive in comparison were Marten's Warbler and Chinese Leaf Warbler. Other good birds at this location were two Stripe-breasted Woodpeckers, a Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler, Lesser Coucal, Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, and a delightful White-gorgetted Flycatcher.
Time was marching on so we started to head back down the mountain, and then came across a male Mrs. Hume's Pheasant, which gave brief views from the bus before it disappeared into the undergrowth. Pressing on we finally arrived at our accommodation, the delightfully named Tangerine Ville Hotel in Fang. It looked rather austere and 'eastern bloc' from the outside but inside was very comfortable and convivial.